Akureyri: somewhere where the word 'home' has meaning

12th September

Imagine a place where children roam freely and are kept safe by everyone. Imagine a place where all ages, young and old, are embraced as members of the community and enjoy the warmth and friendship in that community. Imagine a place, so close to the Arctic Circle it has excellent skiing/snowboarding but also had an outside swimming pool which maintains its temperature at 32℃ all year round, with classes, hot tubs, gymnasium and free time every day. Imagine a place where littering is frowned upon and the locals just don't do it. Imagine all of this and add to it that level of closeness to Nature and you have it; Akureyri.
 Nestled close to the Arctic Circle but protected on three sides by tall 'mountains' (officially not mountain, some 8 cms too short) created in the last Ice-age, Akureyri  is surprisingly mild. 

Few roads cross the area and many are connected by long tunnels burrowed through the mountains, connecting places like Husavik, Myvatn reserve and other major sites. Towns are small by comparison with here, this being the capital of the north. Its based around an old fishing community, and the old town is still visible around the central areas. Old houses have been either utilised as museums or hotels but the charm of  the old town is still strong.

  By the museum called, Sigurhaedir, there were wooden steps going down to the street which took you back to the fjord.
It was really pretty but the steps were steep and getting to them from the church was a bit tricky as the edge of the rough stone access footpath had begun to collapse down the slope. I took it steadily and arrived at the steps.
I could well imagine after rain they would be treacherous, but it was dry and so I was able to enjoy a stroll down to the lower levels, via some very beautiful shrubbery.


As I travelled further down this slope I came across a bench and there, a waterfall coming from a natural outpouring had been forded so as to create a small pool. The water reached its man made edge and cascaded over, its music adding to that of the bubble bees and the smell of autumns flowers.

 

 

 It was lovely to just sit and enjoy the view. It was well before lunchtime and the area was still very quiet. I expected it to become a bit more active later because I had noticed a group of Americans in the church earlier and they were loudly regaling the fact they had lost the rest of the 'party'.
 

 I walked to the bottom of the steps; if I had walked past on that lower road I wouldn't have noticed that garden, but I couldn't miss the waterfall. Here, the man made edge was made from aluminium and caused the water to behave like a curtain.
I would have been transfixed by this alone and would have failed to notice a narrow flight of stairs to its right.
If you go to Akureryi, find it, it is very beautiful. And if you are in the area, I hope you find the museum of life open. Sadly, I was too late in the season to be able to get in, being closed for winter.





 By the time I reached the gardens, I had been out walking for quite a few hours. I decided I wasn't going to do a trip but walk parts of the town I hadn't seen the last time I was her. Basically, I just got off the ship as soon as we cleared customs and went through the port and turned left.
I love following my nose but there are a few things which will cause me to deviate from the road I will be on; classic cars, American classics like Lincolns and Pontiac, 4 x 4 modified vehicles and public gardens. It all fascinates me.
I love housing estates because I get to see the authentic place as it is being lived rather than the sanitised centres all set up for tourists.
I'm nosey and its through this I get to see/find many things other travellers fail to spot.

 My first deviation was caused by a Lincoln sitting by a house along one of the side streets. It was in superb condition and by the crisp packet wrappers inside the car, was still in use.
I wandered to the end of that road and when I had to choose which way, I went left. 
This is when I came across my first communal gardens; the first to be created in the town during the Second World War. There were foreign troops stationed here it seems and they had the idea of building on this field, as it was there. The locals protested so violently, it was decided to make the field into a permanent recreation area and they built their barracks further along toward the other part of the main port.

Its quite large. Built on a cross of paths with a flag pole in the middle, there are tennis courts, children's play area, open areas to run around on, and other amusements to keep family and children active.
I caught the tail end of the planting, but there were still marigolds and cornflowers in bloom and the bumble bees were in abundance getting ready for the approaching snows which were already laying in the flats of the upper slopes.

 
Crossing the park I came across a dual carriageway, so crossing that I noted the football pitch and stadium, walked round the edge of that and saw a steep road which took me into another area of houses. 
Intrigued, I went to cross over but saw something else and explored that first.  Pass. No idea what the statue is about but it was interesting to note he was pointing up toward the closed end of the fjord, not the mouth (that was behind him) and it was also pointing toward the town.
Behind him was a high point, almost like a look out , which it could have been. You can make it out in the background, a small set of steps with a bit sticking up in the middle.
I wandered over to take a look and there was  a brass plaque at the bottom, which said, Lydveldid island, 1944 to 1994, and the top of that plinth was a dial of places and their distances.

I met a cat who was happily stalking the birds round there but it was far too fat to get elevated enough to catch them!
The birds were redstarts and were there in large flocks gorging on the numerous rowan trees there. I haven't seen that many redstarts in many years. Once upon a time we used to get these landing on the stubble fields in Bedfordshire, these days I think the chemicals have taken its toll on such behaviours now.
Having satisfied my curiosity I turned and  went up that steep side street.

 I popped out way above the church and close to the swimming pool. I wandered along. There was a viewing window where I could get a glimpse inside. It was full. There was aqua-aerobics, Jacuzzi sessions, school sessions, private swimming, race training....the list goes on. Steam rose from the water and people were walking there in large numbers.
 I suspect I saw the start of a new session with some school children, as there were significant numbers approaching the main entrance.
I was really pleased to enjoy their arrival. Unlike in UK these children exhibited a level of self control and maturity our children seem to have lost sight of in the jungle/gang mentality which seems to pervade the air.
These students all spoke politely and at a sensible volume. One apologised to me in English (must have presumed I was) and then continued talking with his friend in Icelandic. 
Most impressed I was, most impressed.
I wandered down to the church. It's built in a replica style to the large one in Reykjavik, but without the buttresses. I suspect the similarity is more to do with the fact it was designed by the same person, but I don't know so don't quote me on that.
Inside was sweet. For a Lutheran church, there seemed to be a lot of Catholicism. I've just checked, it is Lutheran but not as plain as I would expect. 
I wandered down the hill and into the town square. Everywhere was open but tourists outnumbered those who lived there. The souvenir shops were attracting people and some were buying. I decided it was time for a fridge magnet and ventured in myself. I played tourist for a few hours and then wound my way back to the ship.

I had walked for some 4 hours and my feet had had enough. It had been a matter of a few degrees above freezing when I set out, it was now nearer 12℃ and I was too hot to cope.
Food called as did getting this blasted coat off! And the boots!




It never ceases to amaze me what people use as number plates. This one I couldn't resist. I chatted to the owner and he was a die hard fan but expressed extreme jealousy when he realised I had seen them more than once. With a sharp intake of breath he just looked at me, "You're so lucky,"he said.