Sun rise, flying fish and hydrotherapy

It was a beautiful dawn, all yellows and peaches with flying fish leaping the waves as we passed.

I'd never seen them in real life, only on the TV so it was amazing to watch them gliding over the water and re-entering at a distance.

This is not my picture but this is what I saw, only there were small shoals of them.

One thing I didn't know is they are cod not sardines even if they look more like they should be.

It's still wonderfully warm, a balmy 24°C but the wind is really whipping along and makes it less pleasant to be up top.

Having had lunch and a natter I decided it was time for a Spa visit so spent a couple very happy hours in the pool and in the sauna. I'm getting to be a bit of a regular in there.

So now I'm seated on the main deck, deck 5, enjoying some nuts and a sparkling water. It's another formal night so I will be well out the way in The Grill with the other formal dinner avoiders 🥰

One thing which makes me grin are the number of stroller supports in use.

Once upon a time some decades ago these people were living life to the full with engines burning and paintwork, perfect. 

Now they are somewhat battered and rather slow, reminding me of a car which has gone round the clock a few times, has too much give in the pistons and very dodgy suspension.

Watching a man coming into the living room in the full dickie bow and black suit using a stroller seems, well, incongruous somehow.

Porto Praia; a much nicer day

No stupid problems with itinerary, no silly stops and disputes, just one, four hour trip which was very well led by a knowledgeable and pleasant man with a very patient and skilled driver.

Our trip took us across the island to the northern side and the original capital of the island.

We went into the market and saw so much activity. This lady allowed me to photograph her but I had to give her something. It's a very poor country, hey, one euro means little to me but is the price of her stall for the day.

Everything seen here is grown by them on land they inherit from the family. This year (as with the last few years) there's been little rain so they've relied on the boreholes. The north gets more water because of the mists off the craggy mountains so they grow for the island.

Even so, the islands import 90% of their food.

China is slowly buying up the island. Soft power, which they learned from us, has built roads, schools and set up businesses. They are the wealthy and politically powerful here. How this marries with the island's new found democracy I dont know but the EU and UK missed a trick of great influence here.

How's this for using plastic waste? Am going to try this when I get back.

We visited the church there, dedicated to Fatima. For a town so poor, they lavished much love on their church.

We also visited a place they called their botanical gardens. 

Sadly the government had missed a marketing trick and let it fall into disrepair. The bones of a beautiful set of terraces still existed but the care and love needed to maintain them was sadly lacking.

Yes, a lovely day but a destination I would not come back to. I've seen it and I'm happy with the snapshot look, so now we sail two days back to the Canary islands and Gran Canaria. 

We arrived, I tripped, I did the washing

Today is the first stop in the islands of Cape Verde. They're a set of small volcanic islands, which, as with the Canaries, range in age as you travel around the archipelago. 

The youngest is called Fogo which last erupted in 2014, so is still very active, closely monitored and always ready to grow more.

We start our sojourn at Porto Grande. 

This is one of the most populated and from the talks we'd had, I got the impression it was smaller than it actually was. There were signs of potential affluence creeping in but the general population were still close to the bread line.

Let's put it this way, I saw very few obese people in the town.

I enjoyed a natter with a lady I'd met earlier until it was time to go, then joined the ranks of mini bus 16 to begin our exploration of the town highlights and culture, followed by a trip through the landscape of the island finishing at Horseshoe Bay for a swim, coffee and nibbles.

Sounded wonderful but things started to go awry when 3 people who for some reason decided they didn't need to go through the process of being told which bus went where, had just picked one.....the wrong ones!!

That took 25 minutes to unpick in the middle of the town.

We then went to the quayside and I watched a couple of fishermen gutting the fish. Now that was fascinating. 

The tin can was the best bit though. Someone had had the brilliant idea of taking an empty tuna can, knocking holes through the bottom so it left jagged edges pointing down through the bottom, then used it to scrap the large fish, quickly and efficiently. 

So then there was a lengthy wait as the ship's tour guide (who by this time was in need of a drink) and the tour guide from the local company attempted to agree on the itinery.

A gentleman and I propped up a barrier and took in the sun and the engaging disagreement which was becoming more interesting by the minute.

What we had been told and what the tour people had said, failed to navigate the Babble-fish too well....it deteriorated.

We spent two and a half hours of faffing and driving around the town in hops of 100 metres and then stopping before my silence was punctuated by short, pithy quips which made many giggle  but could have been interpreted as genuinely observational. The tour guide had a quiet voice and no amplification,  that didn't help. 

I was good, I retired into a bored stupor. The highlight of the tour? Visiting a man's collection of stuff from the 60s and 70s which he lovingly wrapped up in clingfilm. It ranged from old typewriters, to saws, to paraffin lamps to albums to......

We then went to this acclaimed Horseshoe bay, which is acclaimed for I know not what......

When I got back I found the poor lady in charge of all Ashore tours to warn her, bus 16 was not a happy bus and I was past the point of being angry. My comment was,

"There is a right hand and a left hand but there's nobody in the middle."

Well, at least we didn't have the indignity of breaking down half way up a mountain 😂 but that's another bus.

So, I went and calmed down in the laundrette and did my washing and then the ironing.

Second day at sea

As per normal I woke up really early and ended up one of the very first in The Grill for breakfast. 

I'm not sure why, but my phone has automatically changed the time to an hour ahead. Really confusing.

Tomorrow we fall back an hour so unless miracles happen I am going to be two hours out. 🤷‍♀️ 

So, my day began with a magical find, Arla Lactofree Milk! 

I had asked for it in the cabin but it didn't get through. My cabin steward didn't realise skimmed milk or soya just wasn't it but I coped, restricting myself to one cup of tea a day.

The restaurant manager was marvellous, I chatted to him and he took my cabin number......now I have the lactofree and the soya and the skimmed in my little fridge. But hey, I can drink tea which is wonderful.

I spent the morning doing the lettering and the third drawing of the Hellier lighthouse up on the approaches of Kirkwall. It's almost finished but does require some defining pen work.

sorry the image is so dark but I took it on the bed and the light is pretty low in the cabin.

My stomach was telling me it was time to eat so beetling it up to deck 12, I sampled one of the Mongolian stir fries which, I hasten to add was wonderful. Different chef this time. I did wonder if the stir fry represented something he'd studied or something he knew from back home.

Have met up with two people from the Northern Lights trip and we had a great afternoon playing RummiKub. Such good fun.

The pool up top was suffering from soot particles so having had a cursory dip amongst the floating bits, I retired downstairs to The Spar and hydrotherapy. 🥰 bliss.

So I'm back upstairs, no idea what the time is, but am enjoying a cuppa, then I'm going back to the library to listen to the recital. 

......wonder what the time really is? has my clock changed again by any chance? I need a watch I don't kill.

At Sea and feeling fine

An army might march on its stomach, but missing breakfast meant I was ready to demolish bowl fulls.

We were, once more, given a Spanish delight of mixed seafood cooked in mixed peppers and onion and served in a rich fish stock.

They also served green-skinned mussels and fresh bread. It was just what the doctor ordered.

It was cooked in the open on deck 12 so we could watch how it was prepared. Apart from making the fish stock, the cooking of the dish itself took less than 15 minutes.....yes, I will be cooking that when I get home.....just need access to a very good fish stock.

We are heading down the African coast to the Cape Verde archipelago which lies on the same latitude as Senegal.

It's already getting hotter and the sea is a deep blue, matching the sky above.

I spent a few hours in the Hydrotherapy Suite taking advantage of the delights of the sauna, steam room and of course the hydrotherapy pool itself.

Now I'm relaxing in the library with a bitter hot chocolate waiting to have something to eat before retiring to the library to do some more work in my sketch book.

What a wonderful day.

La Palma de Las Palmas

Ok so back on my planet....

It's 10:46 and La Palma is just waking up. 

I've walked to the far end of the city taking the scenic route along the coast and now I am seated in one of their numerous squares, happily writing this whilst sitting under an orange tree.

The café is buzzing with locals and the beers are already being served.

Coffee, churros, tostadas, pan y queso and many other beautifully smelling breakfasts are appearing from the kiosk. Its busy.

This is a lovely wander. I've found two hospitals, visited a fascinating museum, gone into an open fruit and vegetable market and am now enjoying a bottle of water I picked up from the Spar (indicated by the end of the day to green line).

It's still overcast but warm and the place is buzzing.

This time I'm tracing my steps using the Gaia app. I just looked and I've already done 3.6kms most of which have been up hills and down slopes. In places its steps but this is a town centre to keep you fit!

The roads are narrow; just wide enough for a 4 x 4 to get down so all roads, save the coast one, are one way. There's no tarmac because they'd have to import it, so they use the volcanic pebbles laid on their sides all held together with the ubiquitous concrete. Being hard they wear well. In places they make patterns with them.

My ankle is beginning to tell me enough, so one more mini meander and then back to the ship.

We set sail at 16:30 so most of us are starting to get back on board. We had the best of the weather this morning because the mists are descending now.

This afternoon I anticipate hitting the Hydrotherapy Suite and relaxing off my back and ankle, but first.....

Their fish + chips 😏

Off and out on a freebie

So much has changed in Santa Cruz de Tenerife; new land reclaimed around the port, extended container port as well as a new marina and pleasure beach nestled between a cement factory and some  port authority stuff.

We drove to the beach at San Antonio which I had visited a few years ago. 

Today's its overcast and very blustery but it was heartening to see a large array of small fishing ships moored just off shore. The tide was in and the wind whipped up the man made beach. If you wanted sand blasting this was the day to do it.

At least it was yellow and imported 😊 Thank you Sahara.

Our next stop were a set of gardens in the centre of town. Once a potato field, the gardens were created by a doctor for sick children to have a space to clear their lungs and regain health.

In the main square there were works...

without warning, roping off or anything, a cement mixer turned up, we scattered, and they began pouring.

I laughed. 

I knew I was back in Spain. Its everyone for themselves here. Health and Safety? What's that?

So back on the coach and to be honest I lost interest after that. As I said in my appraisal, if I want to see a container port, cement factory etc, I'll go to Tilbury.

typical avenida in Santa Cruz.

Tenerefe

The first time I came to the island, we landed at the north airport, one wheel at a time slewing to a rest some 45° to that which would be expected.

I was about 14 years old and my mother and I were due to go to a grand old converted colonial mansion up in the mountains. I remember staring down at the port and watched the QE2 come into port on her maiden voyage.

The port was small and still housed some fishing boats one end.

Today its one of the largest ports in Europe with a large container dock at one end and a massive cement manufacturer the other. 

Land has been reclaimed and the old harbour walls are now some distance in from the water's edge.

There is a massive oil terminal which has expanded over the years and of course the dedicated cruise terminal which is capable of housing at least five of the massive ships; you know, the ones with 3000 plus people, floating towns basically.

Us? We're tucked in at the very back. We only have 720 passengers and are considerably smaller than all the others. 

The ferry port is in the same section and I would say the inter Island ferry which takes in all the logistics is about our size.

Long gone are the days when the QE2 arrived and because she was so big had to drop anchor within the harbour bowl and tender in and out.

We didn't dock until 11am and were the last in. 

I then had a wait until my trip out which I'd missed in many ways....pretty poor and I did tell the Ashores Team. That one they need to sort out.

As I'm writing this I have just watched the Regal Princess slide out and head off to...probably another of the islands (maybe).

This is the major hub now for cruising this part of the coast, so people fly into the airport, get buses to the quay, face the cattle market to collect cabin passes, the welcome pack etc, and then walk along to their ship.

Mm, not or me. When we came back from our quick jaunt around the "highlights" of Santa Cruz I saw a TUI coach disgorging passengers who were looking for their cases, taking them to baggage collection points, finding boarding information, then going through boarding.

Nope, not any more. I like the idea of leaving the house handing your case to your chauffeur and the next time you're aware of it, its is in your cabin.

I'll natter about the trip next, but safe to say, Santa Cruz is not a destination I would concern myself with. 

Bit like Luton really, ok to pass through as long as you were driving somewhere else.

You meet the nicest people....

When I was travelling to Honningsvåg we all had heavy clothes and bulky suitcases. Like most people, I ended up restricting the number of items knowing we had a laundry on board.

Tiday, whilst waiting for the washer then dryer, the stuff to dry, a small group of people began to frequent the place, some of whom had been on the same trip as me. It was like a gathering of the clans, swapping stories, catching up, trying to sort out the dryer settings, remembering the tricks and trips we'd gleaned whilst on the sister ship.

This ship is slightly different in so much as it has two laundrettes. 

Posh it what? 

We could have done with that on the other ship I can tell you. But it did bring back memories for most of us who had, in times gone by, frequented laundrettes and set up social clubs there, meeting on regular days to swap stories about the family, the kids and general tittle-tattle in the area.

It may seem such a mundane chore but its social meetings like this that make washing clothes all the more enjoyable.

And so it's a return to the ship

Sitting up at one of the Miradors we could see our ship, the smallest one out of the three. The German ship, aptly named Herr Shipp belched out sulfur soot from its engines. Horrible.

I was so glad to hear Saga's two ships run on clean technology and the funnel showed just how clean it was.

It was around now I suddenly realised my appetite was returning and I was famished.

Once back on board it was straight up to deck 12 for a falafel with a few chips and salad.

Having let all that settle it was then off to the Hydrotherapy suite for some hydro on my aches and pains, followed by a sauna, shower and now I'm back in the library listening to the sounds of the Sailaway serenade from an electric guitar and female singer. Low key, just how I like it.

So, that's Funchal for now but I think I will come back and stay in 2023 for a couple of weeks, perhaps for my birthday? Not sure, but Funchal is a definite for me.

Slowly, and stealthily we glided into Funchal

As dawn broke we slid silently into dock and came to rest at the nearest mooring to the town.

I watched as we glided past the main part of town, still fully illuminated with the street lights of night time, to see the sun slowly creep over the mountains which surround Funchal.

The place has crept further up the mountains since I was here last and luxury places poke out amongst the pines.

Steep, clinging onto the side of the slopes, Funchal is already busy and as I sit on my balcony with a cup of tea,  I can see the headlights of cars streaming down from the upper slopes of smaller houses, apartments and villages.

What a lovely sight.

Early breakfast followed by a stroll into the outskirts of the town centre, stopping first at the sculpture of a fish made from scraps and waste.

Then a wander towards the gardens which surround the Casino. The small Madeiran lizards were out in force and bugger ones spent their time shooing away the newly hatched ones.

After about an hour, maybe two, I had to head back; was due out for a scenic tour at 11.20am.

The tour took us all over Funchal which, as expected is a sprawling town resembling the amphitheatre it sits in.

We took in two Miradors, one at each end of the town. The air is clear here but we certainly had the best of the weather...

Mariscos especialides

Wow, what an evening meal, squid, mussels, sardines, scallops, bass, salmon, you name it and it was there together with various meats cooked in Spanish sauces. 

Delicioso 

 I had a lovely afternoon and met a really nice, genuine couple at dinner this evening, so I must admit, it was a very agreeable end to a nice day.

Tomorrow its Funchal. 

I go on a sightseeing trip in the morning then get the afternoon to just meander the streets for a couple of hours.

I like Funchal. It's full of beautiful houses, lush gardens and nice food. I'm hoping to get to see all three and perhaps bring back a little something from the supermarket for later. 

Ok, so now? Well I have one more lecture on one of our destinations to watch and then.....maybe a bit of TV.

Its 8pm and I'm full of seafood and churros with chocolate sauce. 

Yummy.

I lost a day and a half....

Amazing when a migraine strikes. That together with wild seas as we travelled through the Bay of Biscay, flat out, attempting to avoid a storm.

First time ever I was reduced to taking sea-sickness tablets.

Mind you, I wasn't the only one and the number of cabin doors which still had the Do Not Disturb sign illuminated was surprising.

Today is my first real day of enjoying the pleasures of being at sea. The migraine has abated and the seas have reduced. It's about 20°C with some cloud. On starboard, the winds are low and the sun shines down. Outside is like a wind tunnel and no sun. I know which side I'll be sticking to that's for certain.

I went for a sauna and hydrotherapy swim today and will be aiming to do that every day. It has made a substantial difference to my left shoulder and finding I can use that blasted ankle if I hold it at a certain angle really helps.

So, hydrotherapy then an infra red sauna, then back to the Library for a cuppa.

Lunch was enjoyable; I stuck to a very simple salad with a few new potatoes and followed that with a fresh peach and an apple.

I'm now back in the library avoiding the football although I can hear it dominating from the Britannia Lounge on the deck below.

I know we're close when adverts like this appear on my phone 🥰

This afternoon? Well it's a stroll on deck I think and then? Mm, not sure yet, but its Spanish night in The Grill tonight and I would like to enjoy a small amount of their fayre.

Tomorrow its Funchal. I'm off on a short scenic tour then the time is my own. I know Funchal well so will do a nose round the parts I remember I really enjoyed.

Yep, this is the life and my cabin attendant is a complete star.

And the day has arrived 🥳

The car came at 11:25 and that was the last time I had to deal with my case. 

In it went and in I got, to be whisked to Southampton by a really lovely driver who negotiated the M25 as well as the M3 and M27. 

Rather her than me.

We arrived at 13.30 and within fifteen minutes we had cleared security and registered on board.

As usual, a wonderful spread of food was laid on both on Deck 11 where they served everything from pasta to make-it-yourself sandwiches with hot and cold meals in between and Deck 5 which had the cakes and pastries; somewhere to avoid me thinks.

So I'm back in my cabin awaiting muster drill.

Once that is complete we can get underway, probably around 17:00. Then its sit back and enjoy a few days At Sea as we cruise our way to Funchal, Madera.

How simply delightful.