Tuesday 11 July 2023

Nanortalik

Nanortalik is a larger place than most, spread along a spit which sticks into the sea. Surrounded by dangerous semi-submerged rocks and floating lumps of ice, the approach was nothing if not precise.

I'm now seated in the laundry waiting for a machine. Think there must have been a queue before it opened this morning.
Once the washing was done and ironing completed I headed off to the lido deck. The sun had already burnt back; the day looked as though it was going to be another warm day.
Shirley and I were due to go out at 11am so we sat up top for a while then prepared to go ashore.
Tendering over we disembarked amongst the local children all keen to see these old people. They were friendly and polite.
My initial impression was one of a gentle community who pulled together because life was harsh. They cared for each other and knew everyone, making it a very close knit community. There were few facilities we westerners would expect but there was a diesel pump ..... just the one. No petrol again, just diesel.

We have landed during their summer and the area was carpeted with field buttercup, sedges and alpine achellia I think. There were some double headed yellow aconites too which I'd noted growing in the previous place. Again, I think they were aconites, will have to check that when I get home. Whatever they were, they were lovely. In some spots I saw Icelandic poppies too. As to bird life, this was similar to before; some sky larks, rooks and the normal seashore gull array.
The buildings were scattered over this spit and it was clear many of the old tin buildings were being replaced with more modern concrete(?) ones. With no need for gardens, homes were close together with virtually no delineation between one home and the next. 
It was a calm place, a place to come for hiking, canoeing or general exploring. If you had sail you could venture up to Disco Bay and witness the big calving events. I'm glad to say all motorised transport is now banned from the bay and it has been designated research only.
gin ckea waters even around the small motor boats.

 Its clear to us that soon ships will be banned from coming to communities like this unless they are clean burn. It'll wreck the local economies which rely on tourists but the environmental issues could well win out.



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