Back to the cabin, freshen up, it's almost time for dinner...

 My mind is back on board, heading from deck 7 and the library down one flight of stairs to my cabin. Walk along the corridor and up to the forward set of lifts, I'm just before them, D043.

Opening the door, I go inside and slide the balcony door wide. I decide I will be a little later  than usual as I'm not too hungry, so I make a cup of tea and sit outside watching the world pass by. The 'gannets' can go first and I'll have a quieter serving later. Drifting here and there, I listen to the lapping of the water as it gently slaps the side of the ship.

 

Ok, I'm hungry now, so freshen up, put shoes on and head off to the 12th deck. This bit I tend to get wrong, I choose the wrong set of lifts or something, this time I do again and end up walking through, from one end to the other, past the pool. Its warm tonight and there isn't too much of a breeze this time. I might go up onto the observation deck later.

After dinner I'll go onto deck 6 and listen to the pub quiz and see if I can answer any of the questions. Last time I failed miserably.

Beautiful meal made all the better because I hadn't cooked or had to wash up, I stroll up onto deck 14 and watch the world go by until I am chilly.... walk to the South Cape bar and enjoy peppermint tea and live music from our resident pianist, Steve Thiebault.

Another rather lovely evening. Now its my own bed and the TV. Wonder what the show is like? Might watch that. If not then I'll find a video from the 'on demand' channel.

It's hard work being pampered.

 

 

 

Scrabster and the edge of the UK, in more ways than one.

 As we headed back down towards the mainland from the Shetland Islands, the shearwaters started increasing in numbers again and I watch with amusement as the little ones paddled like crazy to stay away from the ship. I can understand their point; if we were a large whale we would have a pretty big tail and that could sink us a bit too deeply.

It was great to hear them and again, by 06:40 I was happily sitting on the balcony enjoying a cuppa and some early morning sunshine. Now that was a treat after the day before.

By 08:30 they were dropping the tenders once more and we then had the wait for clearance, testing and assembly. I was due out at 10:00 so I had plenty of time to watch them lower the tenders and then go for a wander on the Promenade deck.

 

Everyone was fully used to the routine and we waited patiently for our departure number to be called, then, like good boys and girls, filed down the gangway, showed our passes to say we had left the ship and the boarded the tenders.

I love this part, its a moment of anticipation.

Our guide was so knowledgeable and as we travelled along I must admit she told us so much its hard to remember it all, but one thing I do remember is about the sand dunes. They had to cut through a set of dunes which had moved across the intended roadway and hadn't been 'fixed' by planting marram grass. As they dug they came across a Viking settlement with much of the goods still intact. There weren't riches or treasures (the Viking tended to take that with them when they left) but broken broaches, pottery and the bases of their houses.It kept the archaeologists busy for a considerable time and the locality waited so they could create their roadway.

 

John O'Groats is the most northerly point one can drive to and drive they were, in their droves. Cars parked in spots clearly labelled FOR COACHES ONLY and cues congregated around the 'main' way in as it were...the shops, burger vans and of course, toilets.

Our guide was great, she said, 'everyone will go that way, so we will go round the back'. The building above is the original farmhouse that occupied this area before it became a tourist hot spot. Now its a study centre, maintenance area and rubbish collection zone.

Looking a bit like the poor man's Disneyland, we approached with caution. As we walked up the steps a man turned to his companion and said,'oh look the old aged pensioners are on a day out' I unclenched my fist and quietly walked straight ahead trying not to make it obvious this old aged pensioner was not amused by the stereotyping.......at all. Grr.....

Yeh, yeh, yeh, we took the obligatory photos and then walked a little further and looked over the coastline here. It was beautiful and worth the journey just for this view. It appears that not only is there the Coast 500 which you can drive but there is a footpath which goes round too, some 1180 miles! Mm, maybe in another lifetime.

Interestingly, none of us wanted to hang around; we had fallen into the trap of enjoying the ship and its peace and quiet; this was far too noisy and trippery for any of us.

We headed for Duncansby Head and the light house there. Now that is the most northerly point in the UK and the views were spectacular. From here we could see the island of Stroma and further in the distance, South Ronaldsay, Flotta and Hoy.

The cliffs were amazing and some of the remaining nesting birds, the seagulls mainly, swooped around the ledges. We had missed the puffins by a few weeks. I will, one day I will...

As we were about to leave the stacks were pointed out to us. They stood like the three bears; daddy bear, mummy bear and baby bear.....it made me wonder if there was another hidden somewhere called Goldilocks.

That night the sky was amazing and as we sailed towards our final destination, it lit up in colours I've not seen.

In my mind I'm in the library

 I really wish I had taken photographs of the ship itself, and normally I would, but for some inextricable reason I didn't but my mind's eye hasn't disembarked yet.

 

 I'm sitting in the library on one of their comfortable chairs. I have a cup of freshly made coffee in one hand and a handmade dark chocolate cookie in the other. On my lap is my book and I am quietly listening to the classical duet playing on the 5th deck. 

The whole place is divided up into smaller rooms where we can explore the bookcases to our hearts content.

I affably look at my watch and note its 17:25  so there is still a glorious hour before I have to think about dinner. Flicking off my shoes, I curl up on my chair and return my nose to my book.........

 

Calm seas, moored off-shore, Lerwick is waking up.

 

I woke at a very silly time this morning and was drinking tea and on the balcony by 05:40. Not much to see as the mists were hanging low once more and it wasn't until we reached the the Bressay straights and the famous lighthouse there, that the mists began to lift. 

I watched as we passed Gulber Wick and Sound and then followed the road until we turned the final piece of headland into Lerwick itself.

 

As we glided into our tendering position, the only person seemingly to be stirring was this lone fisherman as he headed out.

The first of several bays on Bressay came into view as did the ferry which was already up and running and collecting its first passengers of the day (I presume). The beautiful grey stone house is an old manor converted into bed and breakfast. Unfortunately at £140 per night, its a bit beyond what I would want to pay for B&B.

As we finally took up our position and dropped anchor, the ship slowly rotated and the industrial section drifted into view. Looking at the map it is the Gremista Industrial estate which seems as said before to be the centre for fisheries.

The town of Lerwick itself looks very grey and dark against the grey sky but in a way it looks even more beautiful with the occasional houses painted bright red or turquoise. It is the place to come and stay, rent a car and explore. I must admit since I have been back I have been on Google maps quite a bit and the roads out this way look really good. The views over the other island are also spectacular. One ferry I would love to take from Lerwick is the one labelled Lerwick to Isle of Out Skerries; just the place name gets me. There's probably little there but I'd still like the experience of the ferry crossing.

By 08:30 we had received clearance, our coach drivers and guides all came back negative, we were able to disembark. There were quite a few trips going out the first one being at 08:45....they were late.

There were quite a few choices but as I still felt fragile (and that got worse as the trip progressed sadly) I stuck with the scenic one, but there was one to cruise Mousa island (a RSPB site), visiting Scalloway castle, ponies and local crafts (wonder how much will be open, sadly) and to travel to the south of the main island to take a look and stretch your legs.

Given half a chance I would have done the RSPB trip plus the trip to the south of the island, I could have squeezed them in with careful planning.

 

As we were tendering back to the ship, the Lerwick to Bressay ferry crossed in front of us. It was nice to see it from the water rather than the deck.

My trip left at 13:00 so I had a very pleasant morning just mooching around the ship. I had an early lunch and then settled down with a pot of tea on deck six as I waited to be called to the tender.

The sun was trying so hard to break through and I managed to get this shot through the window of the coach. It is a classic Shetland build; heavy rock buildings with the gables reminiscent of the Netherlands and windows much like those in Glasgow or Edinburgh. 

 

As we were leaving Lerwick I noticed this mound. It seems these were not burial mounds but seats of law making. There are quite a few around the islands and I was told these can be found on the Orkney Islands as well. Next time I go I must keep my eyes open for them.

One of the most famous bays on the island is this one lying opposite Spiggie beach. The sands are luminescent white and seals line themselves up in the sun. Both common seals and grey seals rear their young here; the seas are calm and the waters shallow. The banks of sand keep them safe the and lack of predators make for a very secure nursery.

Opposite this beach is a sand bar which connects this main island with a very small one offshore (well it was until the sand bar remained solid with marram grasses)

We drove over the runway and onto the most southerly point of the island, an archaeological site which boasts the widest span of history. It is the Old Scatness Broch or more commonly known as Jarlshof (think this was after a book?) Prehistoric and Norse Settlement.

The base of the longhouse still clearly visible. As we were there, the local form of transport took off.

Back on the coach and heading back over the runway. This time I was determined to get a picture. This is Sumburgh airport, which , at one time was of military importance. Can't remember now, but I think it was tied up with the Americans(?)

That felt just like Gibraltar

 

Praying for a nice day, wishing I could catch the bus

 If there is one place I absolutely adore its the Orkney Islands. I've been there a couple of times and each time there is a feeling of coming home.

We started entering the straights at around 06:30 and by 07:25 we were passing the small island of Shapinsay.

As we passed the lighthouse, Balfour Castle came into view and with the binoculars I had a really good view. Saddened I didn't have a decent zoom on my camera, I attempted to take a photograph, but it was rather grainy.

Next time!

Coming into dock I noticed the flags were out. We were the first ship to dock since covid hit. Although we wouldn't be able to contribute to the shops wealth in Kirkwall itself, we were employing most of their guides and coaches to get us about.

Rolling hills, open waters and small unassuming bridges lead us towards the standing stones of Stenness

As if on cue, seals lifted their tails and arched their backs as we arrived in the layby. Two bikers were just leaving as we arrived..

 

The farmer who owned the land on which this stone circle sat, was sick of so many people coming to his land. He took the matter into his own hands and before anyone realised he was setting TNT into the stones and blowing them to kingdom come. Fortunately, he was heard, spotted and stopped before all the stones went. He was quite upfront as to why he did it. What he didn't accept was the archeological significance of this circle - the oldest on the island with records going back to early Viking when the centre stone (which had a large hole in the centre of it) was used to settle disputes, arrange marriages and all legal stuff which needed addressing in the islands.

 

The lichen grows thickly on everything on the islands - a sure sign of the cleanliness of the air there.

Burial mounds such as this litter the skyline. This one has been researched and restored and is now open for people to venture inside. Like many of these mounds they had been robbed back in the day by a group of trophy hunters breaking in through the top. All grave goods had been taken but the bones were left pretty much in situ.

A typical build on the islands utilising the local stone for the walls and slate for the roofs. The trees are recent imports probably planted by the house to offer a degree of shelter from the wind which is constant on these islands.

 

A day at sea, then Ullapool

 The day at sea was lovely, classical music in the Atrium bar during the day (at varying times) from the Excelsior Duo, a talk on Ullapool and Kirkwall followed by the singer song writer, Steve Thiebault (no I'd not heard of him either) in the Atrium at afternoon tea.

In the evening, Wayne Denton was playing in the theatre and I anticipated watching it in my cabin as there was a live feed on the TV if you wanted it.

Sadly though, this is where it went wrong; formal nights and I just don't get on. We ate too late, I ate too late, it all went wrong and my best friend was Imodium on and off for the remainder of the time on board, although it did improve a bit by the time we got back to Tilbury.....typical.

Anyway, the day itself was fine and it wasn't until the following morning at about 03:00 that it kicked in. 

The following morning I went down to the cruise desk and told them I wouldn't be able to take up the West Highlands visit and retired to the South Cape Bar which was closed and very peaceful for the morning. 

I listened to the guests being called to tender and smiled as I looked outside the window. The clouds were almost at sea level, they wouldn't be getting much of a view.

These were the only two photographs I took of the approach to Ullapool. At 06:15 the clouds were scant and those which were there appeared to break as we travelled further up the coast. Sadly, this didn't last and as the day wore on the weather began to close in further. I prayed we would be able to enjoy what there was to see of the Orkney Islands and Shetland.

 

Awaiting clearance to go ashore, the first duckling travels over to test drivers and gain clearance to disembark.The weather was not as it was down south and many were feeling the cold. Jumpers, coats and trousers became the order of the day for the rest of the trip.
The air hung heavy but the area had a sparkle all of its own. The captain noted there were many who had failed to get off the ship and he offered on a first come first served basis, a trip round the bay in one of our ducklings. Still not right I couldn't go, but I would have loved to. Never mind there is always another time and I will come again.