Saturday 28 August 2021

Calm seas, moored off-shore, Lerwick is waking up.

 

I woke at a very silly time this morning and was drinking tea and on the balcony by 05:40. Not much to see as the mists were hanging low once more and it wasn't until we reached the the Bressay straights and the famous lighthouse there, that the mists began to lift. 

I watched as we passed Gulber Wick and Sound and then followed the road until we turned the final piece of headland into Lerwick itself.


 

As we glided into our tendering position, the only person seemingly to be stirring was this lone fisherman as he headed out.

The first of several bays on Bressay came into view as did the ferry which was already up and running and collecting its first passengers of the day (I presume). The beautiful grey stone house is an old manor converted into bed and breakfast. Unfortunately at £140 per night, its a bit beyond what I would want to pay for B&B.


As we finally took up our position and dropped anchor, the ship slowly rotated and the industrial section drifted into view. Looking at the map it is the Gremista Industrial estate which seems as said before to be the centre for fisheries.


The town of Lerwick itself looks very grey and dark against the grey sky but in a way it looks even more beautiful with the occasional houses painted bright red or turquoise. It is the place to come and stay, rent a car and explore. I must admit since I have been back I have been on Google maps quite a bit and the roads out this way look really good. The views over the other island are also spectacular. One ferry I would love to take from Lerwick is the one labelled Lerwick to Isle of Out Skerries; just the place name gets me. There's probably little there but I'd still like the experience of the ferry crossing.

By 08:30 we had received clearance, our coach drivers and guides all came back negative, we were able to disembark. There were quite a few trips going out the first one being at 08:45....they were late.

There were quite a few choices but as I still felt fragile (and that got worse as the trip progressed sadly) I stuck with the scenic one, but there was one to cruise Mousa island (a RSPB site), visiting Scalloway castle, ponies and local crafts (wonder how much will be open, sadly) and to travel to the south of the main island to take a look and stretch your legs.

Given half a chance I would have done the RSPB trip plus the trip to the south of the island, I could have squeezed them in with careful planning.


 

As we were tendering back to the ship, the Lerwick to Bressay ferry crossed in front of us. It was nice to see it from the water rather than the deck.

My trip left at 13:00 so I had a very pleasant morning just mooching around the ship. I had an early lunch and then settled down with a pot of tea on deck six as I waited to be called to the tender.

The sun was trying so hard to break through and I managed to get this shot through the window of the coach. It is a classic Shetland build; heavy rock buildings with the gables reminiscent of the Netherlands and windows much like those in Glasgow or Edinburgh. 

 

As we were leaving Lerwick I noticed this mound. It seems these were not burial mounds but seats of law making. There are quite a few around the islands and I was told these can be found on the Orkney Islands as well. Next time I go I must keep my eyes open for them.


One of the most famous bays on the island is this one lying opposite Spiggie beach. The sands are luminescent white and seals line themselves up in the sun. Both common seals and grey seals rear their young here; the seas are calm and the waters shallow. The banks of sand keep them safe the and lack of predators make for a very secure nursery.

Opposite this beach is a sand bar which connects this main island with a very small one offshore (well it was until the sand bar remained solid with marram grasses)



We drove over the runway and onto the most southerly point of the island, an archaeological site which boasts the widest span of history. It is the Old Scatness Broch or more commonly known as Jarlshof (think this was after a book?) Prehistoric and Norse Settlement.


The base of the longhouse still clearly visible. As we were there, the local form of transport took off.


Back on the coach and heading back over the runway. This time I was determined to get a picture. This is Sumburgh airport, which , at one time was of military importance. Can't remember now, but I think it was tied up with the Americans(?)




That felt just like Gibraltar


 

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